Very cold and windy across the plateau and even more UP before suddenly DOWN the Imbros gorge. Half way is a small hut with rifles left behind by Allied troops. Emerged and made short walk to Chora Sfakion.
Waited for rain to stop, then began the trek UP. A welcome cool breeze quickly turned into cold wind. Suddenly the traditional cloaks make sense. Reached the Askifou plateau, then straight to the museum.
Spent too long in the new museum, so cheated a bit and took the bus to Vryses. Thankful that the route goes around the White Mountains, not directly over them. Even still, Tomorrow is all up hill…
Took the overnight ferry from Athens to Souda Bay. Stopped in at Souda Bay War Cemetery. Beautifully maintained and tranquil. Then into Chania itself. Maritime Museum has video of veterans, including ANZACs who were left behind and taken in by Cretan families.
Happy is the man, I thought, who, before dying, has the good fortune to sail the Aegean sea. -Nikos Kazantakis, Zorba the Greek
